Sammen med tre andre klatrere står han for en av de største klatreprestasjonene i Himalaya noensinne; Å ta seg opp den 3500 meter høye Kangshung-veggen på Mount Everest, via en ny rute. Og ikke nok med det; uten oksygen. Dette er så uhørt vanskelig at bare det å sette seg et slikt mål så og si er å betrakte som selvmord.
Men hele gjengen klarte seg, dog ikke uten seriøse frostskader og en episk retur.
Denne historien, og en hel del andre, kan du høre på Fjellfilmfestivalen på Gjendesheim 11. - 13. september og mandag 14. september hos Fri Flyt AS i Oslo (Myrens verksted, Sandakerveien 24c).
Her kjøper du billetter: FFshop.no
Her er noen legendariske uttalelser om Venables og Everest:
«Probably the most adventurous climb in Everest's history.» - Reinhold Messner.
«Other men, less wise, might attempt this way...» - George Mallory
«Four people, no oxygen, no Sherpas! You’re utterly MAD!!» - A friend.
Les også: To klatrere omkom på Matterhorn.
Imponerende: Her er ruta de fire klatret opp på Everest. Kun Stephen Venables klarte å toppe ut. De andre snudde før toppen.
Les også: Griper du etter slynga når du faller? Ikke etter å ha lest denne saken.
Her er mer fra hans imponerende klatre-CV:
HIMALAYAN EXPEDITIONS
1977 HINDU KUSH, AFGHANISTAN
Climbing in Quazi Deh valley, Wakhan Corridor
Rakh-e-Kuchek (5,300 m) – first ascent of North Face
Kohe Sakht (5,780 m) – first ascent of South-West Ridge and traverse of mountain
Kohe Zard (5,810 m) – first ascent of South Face
Roger Everett, Lindsay Griffin, David Lund & Julia Yeomans
1979 HUNZA AND KISHTWAR, PAKISTAN AND INDIA
First ascent of Peak Dawson (c.5,400 m) in Sumayer valley.
Philip Venables
1980 & 1981 KUNYANG KISH, KARAKORAM RANGE, PAKISTAN
Attempts on new route up NW Spur and N Ridge of Kunyang Kish (7852 m)
Reached highpoint of c.7000 metres
Phil Bartlett and Dave Wilkinson, plus Carlos Buhler (USA) and Dick Renshaw (1981)
1983 KISHTWAR SHIVLING, HIMALAYA RANGE, INDIA
First ascent of Kishtwar Shivling (6,000 m). Seven days climb up and down North Face.
Dick Renshaw
1984 MALANGUTTI AND NALTAR VALLEYS, KARAKORAM RANGE, PAKISTAN
Exploration of Malangutti valley, near Shimshal. First ascents of Corner Peak (c.5,600 m) and P.c.5,200 m.
Naltar valley – first ascent of Sentinel North (c.5,400m)
Dick Renshaw
1985 INDO-BRITISH SIACHEN EXPEDITION, EAST KARAKORAM, INDIA
Exploration of the Terong valley, off the Siachen Glacier war zone with eleven person Indo-British team, led by Harish Kapadia.
Unsuccessful attempt at first ascent of Rimo I, with Victor Saunders, abandoned at c 7,000 metres
First ascent of Chorten (6,050 m) and Ngabong Terong (6,180 m) – both solo
1987 KAKAKORAM RANGE, PAKISTAN
Crossing of Khurdopin Pass (5,790 m) with Phil Bartlett and Duncan Tunstall
Crossing of Sokha La with Steve Razzetti
First ascent of Solu Tower (5,979 m) – solo
1987 JADE VENTURE SHISHAPANGMA EXPEDITION, TIBET
Large climbing-scientific expedition led by Col Henry Day and Col John Blashford-Snell
Pungpa Ri (7,486 m) – second ascent of peak by new route from east, with Luke Hughes
Unsuccessful attempt to continue up Shishapangma failed at c.7700 metres
1988 ANGLO-CANADIAN-AMERICAN EVEREST EXPEDITION, TIBET
First ascent of Kangshung Face of South Col, and thence to summit of Everest (8,850 m) by SE Ridge.
Robert Anderson, Paul Teare and Ed Webster. Venables reached summit alone, first Briton to summit without oxygen.
1991 KUSUM KANGURU, NEPAL
First ascent of SW Buttress/S Ridge of Kusum Kanguru (6,369 m) in Everest region
Dick Renshaw and Brian Davison
1992 INDO-BRITISH PANCH CHULI EXPEDITION, INDIA
Eleven person expedition led by Harish Kapadia and Chris Bonington to the Panch Chuli mountains, in Kumaon. Several new routes including East Ridge of Rajramba (6,537 m) and first ascent of Panch Chuli V (6,437 m) with Victor Saunders, Dick Renshaw and Steve Sustad. Venables injured during descent from PV and subsequently rescued by helicopter.
OTHER OVERSEAS EXPEDITIONS:
1982 PERU AND BOLIVIA
Cordillera Vilcanota, Peru:
Ascents of Campa I (5,480 m) and Ccapana (5725 m)
First ascent West Face of Jatunhuma I (6,093m) with Dave Wilkinson
Ancohuma massif, Cordillera Real, Bolivia:
Ascents of Viluyo I (5,500 m), Hancopiti I (5,860 m) and Espalda (5,700 m)
First ascent of South Face of Lhirini (5,970 m) with Lindsay Griffin & Dave Wilkinson
First ascent of Northeast Couloir of Ancohuma (6,487 m) – solo
1986–7 EAST AFRICA
Kilimanjaro, Mount Kenya (Shipton route to Nelion), Mount Stanley (Margherita)
1989-90 SOUTHERN OCEAN MOUNTAINEERING EXPEDITION
Mountaineering in South Georgia
Several first ascents including first ascent of Mount Carse with Brian Davison
1995 MONTE SARMIENTO, TIERRA DEL FUEGO, CHILE
First ascent of South Face of West Summit, Monte Sarmiento
John Rosekelley and Tim Macartney-Snape (leader Jim Wickwire)
2000 SOUTH GEORGIA IMAX FILM
South Georgia crossing for IMAX film ‘Shackleton’s Antarctic Adventure’ with Conrad Anker and Reinhold Messner.
2008, 2010, 2011, 2013 SOUTH GEORGIA EXPEDITIONS
2011
Led Makalu - Everest section of Great Himalayan Trail
2013
Led Antarctic Peninsula ski mountaineering expedition
SELECTED ALPINE CLIMBS
Badile Northeast Face (Cassin route)
Blanche de Perroc Northwest Face (solo)
Aiguille du Midi Frendo Spur
Aiguille Charmoz West Face (Cordier pillar)
Matterhorn Zmutt Ridge
Aiguille Verte Nant Blanc Face
Les Courtes North Face (Swiss route)
Droites North-East Spur Direct
Aiguille Gugliermina South-West Pillar (Gervasutti)
Mont Blanc de Cheilon North Face (winter)
Aiguille du Plan North Face (solo)
Finsteraarhorn North-East Rib (winter)
Aletschorn North Face (winter solo)
Jungfrau Inner Rottal Ridge
Eiger North Face (1938 route)
Piz Ciavazes South Face (Micheluzzi)
Sassolungo West Face (Pichl–Waizer)
Ski tours include Haute Route, Berner Oberland, Uri Alps and Massif des Oisans.
OTHER AREAS VISITED FOR ROCK CLIMBING:
Picos de Europa, Andalucia, Lofoten Islands, South Africa, Namibia, Canadian Rockies, Colorado, New Hampshire
Merk:
Stephen Venables vil ha et begrenset antall bøker for salg, etter foredraget. I det nepalesiske Beni-teltet vil du kunne få boka signert.
