Ondra om siste tilskudd

Verdens beste klippeklatrer omtaler sin nye rute

Sist oppdatert 23. august 2013 kl 11.07
Adam Ondra på Move. Foto: Adam Ondras arkiv
Adam Ondra på Move. Foto: Adam Ondras arkiv

At Adam Ondra valfarter til Hanshelleren på Flatanger vet de fleste. Han har nå besteget enda en linje i det øvre skiktet av vanskelighetsgrad. 

Ruta, som han har kalt Move, er gradert 9b eller 9b/9b+. Her er hans egne ord om bestigningen:

«After I finished off Iron Curtain, I went straight into this project. Not because it was the easiest one to pick, not because it is the best line in the cave (but would be the best line in thousands other places), but because I wanted to prove to myself that I can climb in the roof and that I have acquired some biceps power in the last years.

The route is 55 meters long and can be divided into three parts; 20 meters of 8b leads to huge knee-bar (in common with Nordic Flower), another 20 meters of 8c+/9a leads to uncomfortable knee-bar (up to here 9a). There is right exit variation from Seb Bouin, that climbs huge juggy flakes to the left (7b+ on itself), making it "Little Badder" 9a. Wheras my line just goes straight and involves very bouldery and intense 9a of about 12 meters.

I had a sophisticated approach - to climb the whole route is extremely tiring and at the beginning it would be impossible to get even close on the last part. That is why I installed three fix ropes and started either from two thirds, half way up or one third. After I did all these links, I finally did the route second try from the bottom the last day of my trip in windy and sticky conditions.

I did the route after two weeks and half of work, which slightly disapointing, as I was sure it was gonna be 9b+. But if I bear in mind the fact that it is not my style, I have too much doubts to give it 9b+ even though I think Change might have a been even tiny notch easier (I worked Change much longer, but now I feel stronger). So I give it 9b/b+ or just hard 9b, whatever one prefers.

Now I am charging the batteries and I am off to Flatanger for another 2 or 3 weeks in September, before the school starts, so let's see what is going to happen.»

Kilde: ukclimbing.com

Publisert 23. august 2013 kl 11.07
Sist oppdatert 23. august 2013 kl 11.07
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